STEFANIE SCHOENINGER.
The delicious scent of leather is the first thing you notice walking into the stylish studio at Atelier Stefani. The vintage chic vibe of her studio makes you want to hang out, play chess and drink whiskey. All things her guests often do. Stef creates bespoke shoes that are handcrafted with her heart and soul, she believes there is something truly magical about creating something with her bare hands. Her intention is to pass on the energy that goes into the process and empower her customers to be unapologetically themselves.
MY SIGNATURE STYLE
Every shoe I design is different, nowadays there is a signature lacing detail on the back.
A SYNTHESIS OF SCULPTURE AND DESIGN
What I love about making shoes is the art of the craft, creating something that is a synthesis of sculpture and design. Storytelling plays a big role as well. I believe my creations have a higher meaning than just a pair of shoes that you walk in. They are about bringing joy to the person that gets to wear them, making them feel special, creating memories and giving them the confidence to express themselves.
WHO INSPIRES YOU?
My shoes are inspired by the individual character of the wearer to embody and reflect their unique personality in the creation. That’s the most exciting part of my job - getting to know each customer, to be able to immerse myself in their shoes.
At the start there’s a lot of research going into the design process. I learn about the customer's favourite travel destinations, cuisines, colour preferences, their general style etc. I usually create mood boards before I start sketching. Once I’ve shared the sketches with the customer and they can visualise the shoes better, it turns into a collaborative process where we work together on the final design. They can decide if they want to make any changes or even create something completely different.
WHAT IS YOUR BACKGROUND?
My desire to work in fashion started when I was a little girl. I grew up in a very creative environment, my mom taught me how to sew clothes and I always loved painting. As I grew older that dream faded a little, I found there were so many fashion designers around already. I wanted to do something that was different, but at the time I didn’t know what that was going to be.
So, I chose the safe way and studied economics in Germany. During that time, I lived around the corner from a shoemaker’s workshop. The shop was stacked from top to bottom with leather, there were a few machines in the workshop and it was so tiny, there was barely room for two people. I was intrigued by the craft but the designs I saw in the window were very traditional, nothing extraordinary. I thought to myself, ‘if you could only make shoes, you could make a change and create something more modern and edgy.‘ So one day I walked in and asked the shoemaker if he offered apprenticeships. At first, he said no but I left my number anyway and after a few weeks, he called and said, “You know what?! It doesn’t happen every day that a young woman walks in and wants to learn this dying craft, so let me teach you.” I learned the basics of small leather work from him but the actual process of shoemaking took too long for my liking. I’m quite impatient and by the time I had finished my studies, I decided to find myself a proper job.
I was always unsettled, feeling the urge of moving from place to place and job to job. I gained experience working for different brands and companies, trying different departments, mostly in fashion. I worked in brand and retail management for a luxury brand, then moved to Berlin and worked as a stylist. When I first came to Australia I worked as a freelance project manager in music and PR and also in film production and content creation. All those jobs were fun for a while but nothing made me want to stay.
When I lived in Berlin, I thought about having my own business but it wasn’t until I was living in Australia that I decided to explore the idea and I studied entrepreneurship. When I had to come up with my own business idea I dug deep and eventually thought about shoes again. Unfortunately, I discovered that you can’t learn the craft at TAFE or any other school in Sydney anymore, so I applied for a job at Sydney’s last fashion house that still made shoes. From then on everything went really fast. I was obsessed with the art of shoemaking, I practised day and night and wanted to become the best in the game. It wasn’t a question anymore if I wanted to stay, it was a necessity. The art of the craft gave me some sort of home and that’s where my heart has been ever since. Two months into the practice I was made the main shoemaker in the workshop and about 6 months later I started working on my own brand on the side.
WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST?
To me, craftsmanship means mastering the rules and acquiring the skills. Pursuing the craft is one side; making art that expresses individual values is the most interesting part, which allows room to break those rules and create something unique and personal.
WHAT IS THE MOST DIFFICULT PART?
The most interesting part is also the most difficult part for me - constantly creating something new for each and every individual. Besides that, it is the timing. I wish there were faster ways to craft more shoes in less time, but there's no such thing. A custom pair of my shoes takes about 150 hrs from start to finish and every detail counts to strive for perfection. That's the German in me I guess.
PROUDEST MOMENT?
There are so many small and big successes and every single one of them played an important role in the growth of Atelier Stefani.
If I have to choose, there are two major accomplishments that made me very proud. First, being featured in British Vogue after only a year in business. It was always a dream to see my shoes in the fashion bible and I would have never expected it to happen that fast.
My second proudest accomplishment is my Italian-made ready-to-wear collection that is coming out at the end of this year. It is a milestone for my brand to get limited edition designs handmade by qualified artisans in Italy. It was important to me to maintain the core values of Atelier Stefani which are to produce ethically and sustainable, quality materials that are as environmentally friendly as possible. Equally to maintain exclusivity and slow fashion that goes against mass production and craftsmanship that gives each shoe the attention to detail that it deserves. It has taken over a year now to establish the right relationships in Italy, build a team and manage the production to make this happen and it's amazing to see this come to life.
WHAT ARE YOUR CLIENTS LIKE?
My customers are all so different and come to me for different reasons. There are those that love the quality, others that are into the art and craft behind the shoe and those that appreciate wearing something unique and personal that nobody else has. There are clients who need tailor-made shoes due to medical reasons and love the comfort. Some of my customers want all of the above at once and that's what makes Atelier Stefani so special - we offer it all!
I've made some shoes for celebrities like Orlando Bloom in the past and even delivered them to his house in LA in person, which was super exciting. I would be lying if I said that the experience didn't mean anything to me. It gave me even more motivation to reach for the stars. However, I give every single customer the same attention and put my heart and soul equally into every creation, no matter what background the customer has.
Most of my customers get to know Atelier Stefani through word of mouth. However, pre-Covid we also started growing our brand awareness through international collaborations with other brands as well as retailers around the world, such as in Los Angeles and New York City. International sales paused during Covid, but our goal is to pick up where we left off.
MOST MEMORABLE SHOES
I was recently asked to design bridal shoes for two of my valued customers. The bride and groom were looking for something personal and custom designed to suit their wedding outfits. This touched me in particular and I feel honoured to be the chosen artisan. It allows me to be part of such a special day in their lives.
WHAT’S NEXT?
Atelier Stefani is sadly leaving Australia in the New Year. We are moving to Berlin for an extended 1-year stopover before opening our studio in New York City. Sydney has been great to start the brand, but I feel it's time to spread the love overseas to more metropolitan areas where there are more opportunities that allow Atelier Stefani to grow. Sydneysiders should get in quick before it's too late to be able to enjoy an in-person experience where they can get their feet measured, feel and choose their leathers, and discuss their custom pieces while enjoying a glass of whiskey or champagne.
Contact Stefanie at https://atelierstefani.com or @atelierstefani